Pollution & Eco-Travel – Complexities of the ‘Cha-Ching’ Dynasty

Have you ever been surrounded by a land that leaves you speechless not only because of its natural beauty but also its pure and absolute strangeness? If feeling like you’re on another planet is a thrill you seek, check out Guilin, China. Located in the southern Guanxi province (about 1000 miles directly south of Beijing), Guilin has long attracted visitors for its almost mystical grandeur. In fact, immersed in the spontaneous green peaks that fade to mist and shadows in the distance is likely the closest you’ll ever get to living in one of those classic Chinese landscape paintings.

Guilin is fascinating not just for its natural charms, but also because the city serves as a symbol of the precarious balance China currently negotiates between economic growth and environmental depletion. As it basks in an unprecedented industrial revolution the demands on the country’s natural resources have never been more severe. It’s gotten to the point that many feel this ancient land’s majestic countryside will soon be devastated. But as we found, that’s not quite the case. At least not yet.

While the city of Guilin has been marked by rushed urbanization, the surrounding area still holds on to the charm of small towns nestled between mountains and rivers. This is what we had come to see.

Many travelers choose the town of Yangshuo as the launching pad for trips into the outdoors. Not only will you find traveler-friendly hotels, restaurants, and Internet cafes in Yangshuo, the town’s public transportation includes environmentally friendly electric buses. Several travel agencies await your excursion requests: from rock climbing and white water rafting to guided bike tours and kayaking. These clean, self-powered “eco” trips offer unforgettable views of natural China, along with opportunities to visit farmer and craft markets, caves, and even Buddhist temples.

We began our days in Yangshuo at Kelly’s CafÈ. Banana crepes and spicy dumplings are among the many choices from the long list of Western and Chinese breakfast favorites. (A hot ginger and Coca-Cola brew was a surprisingly effective antidote to a sore throat). Kelly’s English is flawless too, a big help when it’s too early to draw pictures of what you’re trying to order. We decided to rent bikes ($2 / day) and go explore without a guide. As we soon found out, the only real danger in biking through the streets of Yangshuo, are the streets themselves. After a quick run in with a merging (but not looking) motorcycle, we returned our bikes (no charge for the bent rim) and headed to the nearest travel agency to try a different approach. Within a couple hours, we were in kayaks on the Li Jiang river, paddling quietly amongst bathing water buffalo and bamboo raft fishermen.

By day two, we regained our nerve and rented those bikes; this time without incident. We soon pedaled a trail between rice paddies. Heading along the Yulong river, we gaped in awe at the mountains surrounding us that looked like they’ve fallen from the sky and planted their long stone roots right into the ground. The paths along the river are a bit tricky, but friendly locals were eager to show us the way. Stick along the river and you’ll get many an offer for a ride home via bamboo raft. After three hours biking on a hot day, we hardly needed convincing.

As we floated back towards Yangshuo, one of the unique qualities of eco-travel in China emerged unexpectedly when a busload of Chinese tourists emptied onto the river. China is one of the few developing nations where growth is happening so rapidly that its new upper-middle class can finally afford to travel themselves and explore their own country We were thrilled and honored to share the river (their river) and see some of China’s up and coming professionals enjoy the beauty of their outdoors with their families.

Such appreciation for nature in China is badly needed. The same economic growth that is fueling a boom in domestic travel is also quickly depleting the country of its natural treasures. China’s cities are notoriously dirty, yet its pollution is far from limited to urban centers: China concedes that 70% of its rivers and lakes are polluted.

China’s environmental crisis will likely draw mainstream attention soon. Runners complaining about air pollution in Hong Kong following a recent marathon foreshadow a much larger reaction in 2008, when China is likely to host the first Olympics in history with the sun totally blocked by smog. Pollution has left Beijing and most urban centers in China skyless. The government has acknowledged the problem it faces and has pledged that Beijing will be 80% smog-free by the year 2008 and so far, China has budgeted some $162 billion for environmental protection between 2006 and 2010.

According to the World Bank, pollution related expenses cost China 8-12% of its annual GDP of $1.4 trillion. Such a costly situation has begun to fuel action. Already, many of the world’s most innovative green architects and designers are working in China. Visionaries like William McDonough (www.mcdonoughpartners.com) and Peter Head (www.arup.com) are planning entire cities as zero-emission models. Although their voice is limited, environmental NGOs (non-governmental organizations) are on the rise and consciousness is growing. With pollution-related deaths soaring into the hundreds of thousands and drinking water shortages, how could it not be?

As a nation and a people, the Chinese face an interesting and unfortunate dilemma, one the United States has struggled with for decades. How much growth at what cost to the earth around it? However, now that science supports the notion that humans have long contributed to the poor state of the environment, it will be interesting to see how the country (often criticized for its poor record on human and environmental rights) coalesces around this cause.

Protecting China’s natural beauty seems to be a priority, even if it’s just to satisfy requirements for the 2008 Olympic Games. But by fueling a new market for tourism, travelers to China can also have an impact. Sure, see the Forbidden City in Beijing and the bustle and sparkle of Shanghai. Just don’t forget that the magical landscapes you see in ancient Chinese art is still a reality to be enjoyed by all. But for how long?